France is seeing an influx of North American dining trends, ranging from trendy eateries modeled after diners in “The Sopranos” to shifted meal times and the rise of digital tipping. While some of these changes, such as the popularity of smash burgers or Detroit-style pizza, have been embraced through social media, other shifts—particularly the adoption of North American tipping practices—are facing significant pushback and skepticism. An all-American-style diner serving Italian-American dishes became one of the most viral dining destinations in Paris, over the past year. Red velvet banquettes, neon signs, rotating ceiling fans, Formica tables topped with vintage salt and pepper shakers and bottles of Tabasco sauce recreate the look and feel of a diner that would fit right in on “The Sopranos.”, inside Red Sauce. And plates groaning with giant meatballs and eggplant parmigiana are passed out by young servers with faint Italian accents to tables of chattering French diners, racks of Detroit-style pepperoni pizza topped with jalapeños and hot honey. Red Sauce is one of dozens of American-inspired dining experiences that have popped up around the French capital in recent years. Smash burgers and donuts, Parisians have also been introduced to regional American cuisines like Texas barbecue, Southern-style fried chicken and waffles and seafood boils, complete with plastic gloves and paper bibs, alongside New York-style pizzas sold by the slice. The cross-Atlantic arrival of other elements of North American dining culture is being met with a mix of curiosity, reluctance — and resistance, but while American specialties have found legitimacy in France through the power of social media and savvy marketing.
The traditional, leisurely French meal is increasingly under pressure. Restaurants are experimenting with earlier dinner hours, a move some observers, including the newspaper Le Figaro, have questioned as either a temporary trend or a fundamental shift in local habits. Simultaneously, the iconic long, multi-course lunch break is being replaced by rapid, takeout-style dining, a change often highlighted in popular culture like the series “Emily in Paris.”
Perhaps the most contentious development is the introduction of digital tipping. In France, the word “pourboire” (literally “to drink”) traditionally refers to small amounts of change left on a table as a gesture of appreciation. Unlike the United States, there is no obligation to tip, as restaurant staff receive a minimum wage and a mandatory 15% service charge, known as “service compris,” is already included in the bill. However, the emergence of card machines and QR codes prompting customers to add a 5% to 20% gratuity has sparked widespread debate.
Critics, including journalist Frédéric Martel, have labeled this system as deceptive and even “theft,” arguing that it undermines the French standard of service. Many patrons, such as Lyon resident Rose Camara, refuse these digital prompts on principle. Camara argues that fair wages should be the responsibility of employers rather than customers, and she fears that normalizing these prompts will push France toward the American system where workers rely heavily on gratuities.
Restaurateurs are divided on the issue. Christophe Souques, who operates cafes and pubs across southern France, has banned digital tipping at his establishments. He contends that the practice turns human interaction into a transactional, financial exchange and violates customer privacy. Despite these objections, digital tipping is spreading. A report from the provider Lightspeed noted that the share of digital transactions including a customer tip rose from 4% in 2023 to 10% in 2024. The practice gained momentum after the French government made card-based tips tax-free until 2028.
Philosopher Jean-Loup Bonnamy has criticized these shifts as a broader “Americanization” of French society. Others, like Elisabeth Debourse of the restaurant guide Le Fooding, point out the practical motivations behind such changes. For instance, Canadian chef Jules St-Cyr, who launched the counter-service restaurant Bittikesu, adopted a 6:30 p.m. seating to manage the logistics of a 2.5-hour tasting menu, though he notes that many locals still resist such early dining times. According to “It’s a form of Americanization of French society,”, Philosopher Jean-Loup Bonnamy, on a 2024 episode of the French talk show “ Les Grandes Gueules ” (“Big Mouths”) dedicated to the topic. “It’s the culture of ‘tipping’ and it’s a servile and misunderstood form of Americanization.”.
Despite the tensions, some experts believe the French can compartmentalize these cultural shifts. Debourse, author of “American appétit,” suggests that there is no perceived link among the French between enjoying American-influenced food or services and the complexities of current American politics. While the debate continues, the struggle to balance convenience with tradition remains a central theme in the evolving landscape of French hospitality.
